For generations, sweet-and-sour fruit soups have been made in Hungarian kitchens. Transylvanian Princess Anna Bornemisza's cookbook, published in 1680, contains such soups as Caper Soup with Black Sea­Grapes, Butter Soup with Raisins, and Sweet Wine Soup, to mention only few. This soup is ideal for hot summer day.

1. Cut the top of the melon as shown in the photo. Remove the seeds with a spoon.

2. Cut 16 balls from the honeydew melon with a melon baller. Put the balls into a cup, add the Tokaji aszu and refrigerate.

3. Scrape the remaining melon flesh into a 4-quart bowl. Refrigerate the melon rind intact. Add the wine and cream to the melon flesh, cover and refrigerate until chilled. Puree the melon in a blender or food processor and refrigerate again for at least 1 hour until chilled.

4. Pour the refrigerated soup into the chilled rind, add the melon balls and the Tokay aszu accumulated in the cup into the soup. Present the soup in the rind on the table, garnished with fresh mint. Serve in chilled cups.

Option : Use small bowls instead of the melon ball when out of season.

Per serving (1/4 of recipe)

About 2 pounds green asparagus, no more than 1/4-inch in diameter
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of baking soda
4 servings Gribiche Sauce

1. Trim 1/2-inch from the bottom of asparagus stems, if necessary, and if the asparagus are not young and tender, peel the stems. (See below for a detailed description of how to peel asparagus.)

2. In a pot large enough to hold the asparagus on its side, bring 4 cups of the water along with the salt and baking soda to a boil. Meanwhile, put 2 cups of water and 4 or 5 ice cubes in bowl.

3. Using a slotted spoon, add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook for 1 or 2 minutes for pencil thin asparagus and 4 or 5 minutes for slightly thicker asparagus. Using a slotted spoon, lift the asparagus from the boiling water and immediately plunge into the ice water.

4. Leave for 2 minutes. Lift from the ice water, wrap in a damp kitchen towel and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes until chilled.
(The asparagus can be prepared ahead of time, wrapped in plastic and refrigerated until ready to serve.)

4. Cut the asparagus into 3-inch lengths. Divide the lengths among 4 plates with the heads facing in the same direction, or arrange on a serving platter. Serve the sauce on the side.

To peel asparagus, hold the upper part of the asparagus between your thumb and index fingers and rest the lower part against your wrist to keep the vegetable from breaking when pressure is exerted with a knife.

Cut into the skin 10 inches from the head. Peel off a thin strip of the hard part. Turn the asparagus with your finger after peeling off a strip and repeat the procedure. Continue until vegetable is evenly peeled. There should be no hard outer flesh left on the asparagus. Asparagus can also be served hot; in this case, rinse in cold water after boiling to prevent further cooking.

Gribiche Sauce 4 servings

1. Halve the eggs and remove the yolks. Put the yolks in a small bowl and mash with a fork. Cut the whites into thin strips and set aside.

2. Put the crushed ice in a 2-quart bowl pot and set the small bowl with the egg yolks on the ice. Add the mustard and season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk to mix and then, still whisking, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream until incorporated and the consistency of mayonnaise. Whisk in the vinegar and then stir in the cornichons, capers, leek, parsley and tararagon. Gently stir in the egg whites. (

4 servings

1. In a 2-quart saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Add the rice and salt and simmer for about 40 minutes or until rice is tender. Drain.

2. In a 10-inch frying pan, heat the oil over medium high heat. Saute the leek for about 2 minutes until golden brown. Add the mushrooms, peppers and parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper and saute for 4 or 5 minutes. Add to the rice and mix well. Cover to keep warm until ready to serve. Makes 4 servings.

1. One or 2 hours before serving, slice the peeled potatoes with a mandoline, cutting across the width of the potato to make round, waffle-patterned slices. You will need 5 slices from each potato, but it is a good idea to cut the potatoes so that there are a few extra.

2. Pour the vegetable oil into a heavy pot or deep-fat fryer to a depth of 2 or 3 inches and heat until very hot.

3. Deep fry the waffle potatoes until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels and set aside.

1. Blanch the morels in boiling water for a few seconds. Drain and dry with a soft cloth or paper towel.

2. Sprinkle the goose liver with salt and pepper and spoon it equally into the morel cavities. Melt the butter in a small frying pan over low heat. Add the morels, season with salt and pepper and cook, shaking the pan gently, for about 2 minutes. Set aside until ready to serve. (These can be prepared up to 30 minutes in advance.) (If you are unable to get goose liver, use a substitute.)

In a saucepan of lightly salted boiling water, cook the potatoes for about 15 minutes until tender. Drain and transfer to a bowl. Using a potato masher or fork, mash the potatoes. Add the egg yolk and mash until smooth. Season with nutmeg and salt, cover and set aside to keep warm.

In May 1993, Gundel Restaurant was privileged to arrange the State Luncheon in honor of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth when she and Philip the Duke of Edinburgh visited Hungary. It was the first time an English monarch had visited Hungary and I created this dish for the fes­tive event.

George Lang suggested that every dish on the menu be made in the shape of a crown.

Boil the wine over medium-high heat until reduced by three-quarters. Add the demi-glace, return to the boil and then remove from the heat. Stir well, cover and keep warm. Makes 4 servings.

1. Cut the veal tenderloins in half lengthwise and then cut each into 3 strips, leaving them attached at one end. This is to prepare the meat for braiding. Sprinkle the strips with herbs and salt.

2. Weave each piece into a braid to make 4 braids. Lightly oil the outside of a 10-by-2-inch steel tube (such as a cake tube pan). Wrap 1 braid around the outside of a tube cake pan and fasten the ends with a metal skewer or toothpick.

3. Heat the oil on a griddle or in a large frying pan. Saute the veal braid for about 7 minutes, rolling it to brown the meat evenly. Carefully pull the meat from the tube and set aside to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining veal braids, cooking them one at a time. Rub the tube with oil as needed and add more oil to the griddle as needed.

To Serve 1. Place 1 fried veal braid in the middle of a plate, fill it with Wild Rice Confetti and set a stuffed morel on top of the rice. 2. Spoon the potato puree into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip and press 5 stars around the top of each veal crown. Insert a waffle potato in these stars.

3. Brush the sides of the meat with the gravy and gar­nish with fresh herbs.